Настройка переключателей скоростей на велосипеде

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В этой статье рассмотрим как производится настройка переключателей скоростей на велосипеде. Переключатели скоростей на первый взгляд могут показаться сложным механизмом хоть и имеют довольно примитивную конструкцию.

Переключение скоростей происходит из-за ослабления и натяжения тросика, двигающего переключатель. Т.е., по сути, переключатели являются простейшей механической конструкцией, и в их регулировке нет ничего сложного. Начинается настройка всегда с заднего переключателя, за исключением случаев когда требуется регулировка только одного из переключателей велосипеда.

Настройка заднего переключателя

Убедитесь, что переключатель не погнут. Если натяжитель цепи (лапка с двумя роликами внизу заднего переключателя) параллелен звездам кассеты, то все нормально. Если нет, то скорее всего погнут не сам переключатель, а петух — крепление переключателя к раме. Его легко выпрямить, потянув за переключатель, но не тяните за один натяжитель цепи! – он согнется раньше, чем выпрямится петух, а его уже не так просто выпрямить.

Приступаем к регулировке. Выбираем бОльшую скорость, при которой цепь стоит на самой маленькой звезде кассеты (блок звезд на заднем колесе). На переключателе есть 2 винта с маркировками H и L (см. картинку). Крутим винт H (High) так, чтобы ролик переключателя стоял на одной линии с меньшей звездой. Теперь выбираем меньшую скорость – самая большая кассеты. И теперь крутим винт с маркировкой L (Low) до выравнивания ролика с большой звездой.

После этого надо натянуть трос, при этом на манетке заднего переключателя должна стоять максимальная скорость. Убедитесь, что тросик четко лег в канавку у фиксирующего болта (на картинке обозначен цифрой 1) и затяните его. Закрепить трос надо с хорошей натяжкой. Если плохо включаются высокие передачи (при наборе скорости на велосипеде), ослабьте натяжение троса регулятором (на картинке обозначен цифрой 2). Если плохо сбрасываются (при снижении скорости езды), то нужно натянуть трос, выкручивая регулятор натяжения. Если обвеска байка по-дороже, то регулятор есть и на манетке, что позволяет регулировать натяжение тросика на ходу.

Теперь последняя регулировка. Поставьте цепь спереди на маленькую, а сзади на самую большую звезду и прокрутите педали назад. Крутя винт натяжения (на картинке обозначен цифрой 3) добейтесь того, чтобы верхний ролик заднего переключателя находился как можно ближе к звезде, но не касался ее. Это нужно для наиболее плавного переключения скоростей. Теперь поставьте максимальную скорость – спереди большая звезда, сзади самая маленькая и убедитесь, что и в таком положении ролик не касается звезды кассеты. На дешевых переключателях этой регулировки может и не быть.

Настройка переднего переключателя

Передний переключатель отрегулировать будет еще проще чем задний. Но важно чтобы он был правильно закреплен на раме велосипеда. Когда цепь стоит на самой большой звезде, от звезды до рамки переключателя должно быть от 1 до 3 мм. И рамка должна быть параллельна звездам. Если все так, то можно начинать настраивать.

Выставьте минимальную скорость – сзади самая большая, а спереди маленькая звезда. Ослабьте натяжение тросика и крутите винт с маркировкой L (Low (где он находится видно на картинке) пока между цепью и рамкой переключателя не останется миллиметровый зазор. После этого закрепляем тросик винтом (на картинке обозначен цифрой 4) с хорошим натяжением. Нужно следить, чтобы он лег в специальную канавку возле винта.

Теперь выставляем максимальную скорость, когда спереди цепь на самой большой звезде, и на меньшей кассеты, и крутим винт с маркировкой H (High), чтобы зазор между цепью и внутренней плоскостью рамки составил миллиметр. Если после этого цепь все равно неохотно залезает на большую звезду отверните немного винт H.

Теперь садимся на байк и пробуем насколько успешно прошла настройка переключателей скоростей. Если цепь плохо переключается на пониженную скорость (меньшие звезды) покрутите регулятор натяжения тросика, расположенный на монетке переднего переключателя на руле, чтобы ослабить натяжение тросика. Когда цепь вяло залезает на большие звезды, натяните тросик этим же регулятором.

Проблемы

Если при кручении педалей с усилием цепь проскакивает, это означает, что она растянулась и ее пора менять. Если вы ее давно не меняли, возможно придется поменять еще и звезды с кассетой, т.к. изношенная цепь быстро приводит в негодность звезды.

Если плохо включаются какие-то определенные скорости, проверьте свободно ли ходит тросик в рубашках и нет ли надломов, а также мест с расплетенной обмоткой тросика. Рубашки с надломами и те, в которых трос проходит с трудом подлежат замене, как и поврежденный тросик. Эта же проблема может быть вызвана погнутым петухом.

Если переключатель внезапно вообще перестал работать, то проблема однозначно в тросике: либо он плохо закручен фиксирующим болтом, либо порвался.

И еще важный момент. При переключении скоростей следите за тем чтобы не было перекоса цепи, из-за расположения ее одновременно на противоположных звездах шатуна и кассеты, а так же на средней звезде и крайних звездах кассеты. Неправильное расположение цепи показано схематически на картинке. Из-за этого происходит быстрый износ как цепи так и звезд.

В целом настройка переключателей скоростей велосипеда выполняется быстро (30-40 минут) и без особых усилий.

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90000 Setup Guide — How to adjust your mountain bike suspension for optimal performance 90001 90002 90003 Is your spring rate leaving you deflated? Do you feel like you can not rebound fast enough? It’s time to take an hour or two to set up your mountain bike’s suspension with our essential suspension setup guide. 90004 90005 90006 Suspension, why bother setting it up? 90007 90002 Correctly tuned suspension can make a good bike feel great, but a poor setup can make a great bike feel terrible.We take you through the essential steps to optimize your bike for your riding style and the trails that you love. Spending a couple of hours tweaking your suspension will transform your riding enjoyment and can also be a lot of fun. 90005 90006 You’re not a number! 90007 90002 The purpose of this tuning guide is to help you reach a suspension setting that is optimised for you. Suspension set up is dynamic — there are so many variables like your weight, where you ride, what you ride and how you ride, that mean that simply copying your mates ‘, or even worse a pro’s, setup will result in sub-optimal performance .While most manufacturers now offer printed guidelines that will give you a good base setup, following this guide will give you the skills to personalise that setup. 90005 90006 Suspension is always a compromise 90007 90002 There’s no such thing as the perfect suspension setting. If you optimise your suspension to provide big-hit support, small bump sensitivity will suffer. Suspension setup is always a compromise, finding a balance between sensitivity and support. It’s therefore important to find the suspension balance that suits the way you ride and your trails.90005 90006 Before you start 90007 90002 Before you invest time optimising your suspension, you need to ensure that your suspension fork and shock are in good working order. There’s no point spending time on setup if your suspension units are puffing and wheezing their way down the hill. Most suspension manufacturers recommend an oil service every 50 hours of riding and a full damper service every 100 — 200. Be honest, when was the last time you had yours checked? If you’re setting up a new bike you do not have to worry, but if your bike has seen some action it is essential to first get your units serviced by professionals — it will transform the performance of your bike! 90005 90002 90003 To follow this guide you will need your normal riding clothes, right down to your helmet and backpack.To best optimize your bike’s performance you will need a short section of your favourite technical trail, a shock pump, a measuring device (ruler or tape), a calculator and a buddy to help. 90024 90004 90005 90006 90003 Step 1: 90004 Setting your sag 90007 90002 For your suspension to perform at its best, it must be able to respond to every contour of the trail. When you hit an object, your fork and shock compress, absorbing the energy from the impact. This, in turn, is released by extending back out again.To maintain traction, suspension forks and shocks not only have to absorb impacts but also extend to fill holes and keep your tires on the ground. In order to let the suspension both compress and extend, we preload the suspension with our own body weight. The amount of preload is known as sag, literally the amount the suspension sags into its travel when you sit on the bike. Too little sag and the bike will lack grip as it can not extend into compressions, too much and it will wallow and respond poorly to repeated impacts.90005 90002 90003 When we sit on the bike the amount the suspension compresses into its travel is known as the sag and it defines the way your bike rides. 90004 90005 90037 Setting your rear shock sag 90038 90002 Before you start make sure your rear shock is in ‘fully open’ mode (if you have a low-speed compression adjuster wind it fully in the [-] direction). Have your assistant support the bike on level ground as you climb on. 90005 90041 90042 Bounce firmly up and down to charge the negative spring and free up the travel.90043 90042 Assume your normal seated position and after allowing the bike to settle for at least 5 seconds have your assistant push the rubber O-ring on the shock stanchion up (or down) to the rubber wiper seal. 90043 90042 Carefully rock your weight forward and dismount from the bike without disturbing the O-ring. 90043 90042 Measure the distance the O-ring has been pushed up from the wiper seal in mm. 90043 90042 Divide this number by the total shock stroke (often less than the physical shock shaft length, check in your bike manual) and then multiply by 100 to get the percentage sag, e.g. (15 mm / 50 mm) x 100 = 30%. 90043 90042 To achieve the correct sag, add or remove air from the air-spring as needed and repeat. 90043 90054 90002 Many manufacturers will have a suggested sag setting, but if not, we recommend a base setting of 30%. If you require less sag simply add air to the shock, if you require more sag lower the air pressure. Add air in 10 psi increments and each time repeat the process until you reach the required sag. 90005 90002 90003 Pro-Tip: 90004 While setting the sag, hold just one brake, not both or you will cause incorrect readings.90005 90037 Setting your fork sag 90038 90002 Once the rear shock is set correctly, it’s time to set up your suspension fork. Make sure your suspension damping is fully open and adjust the air-spring pressure to the manufacturer’s recommendation. Have your assistant support the bike as you climb on. 90005 90041 90042 Bounce firmly up and down to charge the negative spring and free up the seals. 90043 90042 Assume your normal standing attack position then after allowing the bike to settle for at least 5 seconds have your assistant slide the rubber O-ring on the fork stanchion down to the rubber wiper seal.90043 90042 Carefully rock your weight back and dismount from the bike without disturbing the O-ring. 90043 90042 Measure the distance the O-ring has been pushed up from the wiper seal in mm. Divide this number by the total travel (eg 160 mm) and then x 100 to get the percentage sag. 90043 90042 To achieve the correct sag, add or remove air from the air-spring as needed and repeat. 90043 90054 90002 Start with the manufacturer’s recommendation, or if there are none we would suggest 20%.If you require less sag simply add air to the fork, if you require more sag let some air out. Add air in 10 psi increments and each time repeat the process until you reach the required sag. 90005 90037 Advanced tuning 90038 90002 It’s now time to optimize your base setting. Choose a short section of local trail that includes features that you regularly ride. Rocks, drops, jumps, berms and G-outs, whatever you enjoy riding — the more features the better. Choose a trail with at least one section where you would expect to use full travel and one that you are comfortable with where you can hit the same lines again and again.Before you start tuning, be sure all external rebound and compression adjustments are set to the manufacturer’s recommended specifications. This will put all settings in a good base range for your weight. 90005 90002 90084 90085 If a rider has a trail they ride weekly and know very well, they should be using all of their travel on occasions. What often happens is a rider will go to a new trail or one that they do not know as well and will not achieve full travel. This is OK as they will not be riding as fast as they would on familiar trails.90003 Mark Fitzsimmons 90004, FOX Suspension Program Manager 90088 90005 90006 90003 Step 2: 90004 Optimising your air-spring rate 90007 90002 While 20% sag in the fork and 30% in the shock is a good base setting, it may not be the optimal for your riding style and the bike’s suspension design. Spring rate (the force needed to compress the spring) is always a balance between big-hit support and small bump sensitivity. The optimum settings for you will depend on your riding style and the trails you ride.90005 90002 After a few runs to get comfortable, push the fork and shock O-rings down to their wiper seal and ride the trail, concentrating on how big impacts and drops feel, is your bike bottoming out harshly, does it feel harsh on small bumps , are you getting full travel where you expect to? 90005 90002 90003 If the rear of your bike feels wallowy and stuck to the ground, bottoming out easily 90004 90024 Your shock spring rate is too low. Add pressure to the rear shock, 10 psi at a time, and repeat the trail.Stop adding air when the bike feels good, while still giving full travel when required. Make a note of the optimised pressure. 90005 90002 90003 If the rear of your bike feels harsh over small bumps and does not give you full travel where you desire 90004 90024 Your shock spring rate is too high. Remove pressure from the rear shock 10 psi at a time and repeat the trail. Stop when the bike feels good over small bumps and maintains traction. Make a note of the optimised pressure. 90005 90002 90003 If your suspension fork dives when you brake or ride very steep trails 90004 90024 Your fork air spring rate is too low.Add pressure to the suspension fork 5 psi at a time and repeat the trail. Stop when the fork dives less and gives good support. Make a note of the optimised pressure. 90005 90002 90003 If the suspension fork feels harsh over small bumps and lacks grip 90004 90024 Your fork air spring rate is too high. Remove pressure from the fork 5 psi at a time and repeat the trail. Stop when the fork feels sensitive over small bumps but still has good support. Make a note of the optimised pressure. 90005 90002 90003 Pro-Tip: 90004 If you find that the only way to stop frequently bottoming out your suspension fork or shock is to use a high spring pressure that feels very harsh over small impacts, you may need to increase your spring rate progression, see Step 3.90005 90006 90003 Step 3: 90004 Spring rate progression 90007 90002 We now have to consider how powerful you are as a rider and how challenging your trails are. If you’re a strong rider and feel like the rear suspension is frequently bottoming out, or your fork is running low in its travel under hard braking and fast corners even though the bike does not feel soft in general riding, you may need to adjust the spring rate progressivity. For a more progressive spring rate you need to add volume spacers (or remove if you are not using enough travel).Adding volume spacers will make the final part of the suspension stroke firmer, requiring more force to bottom out. 90005 90002 90003 If you feel that you are bottoming out your suspension too frequently, despite running the correct air-spring pressure 90004 90024 Reduce the volume of air in the fork or shock air-spring chamber with the addition of 1-2 volume reducers. 90005 90002 90003 If you feel that you struggle to achieve full travel where you expect to 90004 90024 Increase the volume of air in the fork or shock air spring chamber by removing 1-2 volume reducers.90005 90002 90003 Pro-Tip: 90004 If you make big changes to the setup of your fork, such as a firmer spring rate or the addition of more volume tokens, go back and tune the spring rate and progressivity of the rear shock to match. It’s likely that with improved front end confidence, you will ride more powerfully and need to reconfigure the shock. Go back to the track and start again. 90005 90006 90003 Step 4: 90004 Rebound damping 90007 90002 90003 Rebound damping controls the speed at which compressed suspension extends after an impact.90004 90005 90002 If rebound damping is too low (-) the suspension will extend too fast and feel bouncy and out of control. If the rebound damping is too high (+) the suspension will not recover fast enough after repeated impacts and ‘pack down’, sinking ever lower into its travel and performing poorly. 90005 90037 Setting rebound damping on your shock 90038 90041 90042 Start by adding full rebound damping (+) to the shock. 90043 90042 Choose a small drop to ride off slowly and focus on how the rear suspension springs back after impact.90043 90042 Repeat the test, each time reduce rebound damping by one click (-) and see how the shock starts to recover faster. 90043 90042 Stop when the rear shock recovers so fast it overshoots a tiny amount. This is a good base setting. Now repeat a full section of trail at this setting. Experiment twice more with two clicks either side and see which feels the most controlled with good grip. 90043 90054 90037 Setting rebound damping on your fork 90038 90041 90042 To set a base fork rebound, start with the rebound fully closed (+).Stand next to your bike and compress the fork with your body weight. Quickly release the fork and let it bounce back. 90043 90042 Adjust the rebound until the fork rebounds as fast as possible without causing the front wheel to ‘jump’ off the ground. 90043 90042 Once the base setting has been set, repeat a full section of trail at this setting. Now repeat a full section of trail at this setting. Experiment twice more with two clicks either side and see which feels the most controlled with good grip.90043 90054 90002 But what about high-speed rebound damping? Most suspension forks and shocks have a single rebound adjuster, which effectively is a low-speed rebound adjuster. Some very high-end suspension units also have a high-speed rebound adjuster too, controlling rebound speed at high-shaft speeds. However, we have seen that there is a lot of crossover between high- and low-speed rebound, any adjustment of one directly influences the other. If you have a high-speed rebound adjuster, we recommend setting it to the manufacturer’s recommendation and then setting rebound as described above using the low-speed rebound adjuster.90005 90002 90003 Pro-Tip: 90004 If you ride a lot on easy terrain or slowly, then a slower rebound may feel more comfortable initially. However, moving to faster terrain, for example on a holiday in the Alps, will leave you with sore arms and legs as your bike can not recover fast enough from the hits. Run as fast a rebound setting as is comfortable for maximum performance. 90005 90006 90003 Step 5: 90004 Low-Speed ​​Compression Damping 90007 90002 90003 Low-speed compression damping influences your suspension characteristics at low shaft speeds (not bike speeds), predominantly influencing the mid-portion of the suspension travel.90004 90005 90002 If you feel like you have achieved a good spring rate with good small bump performance and good bottom out control, but you feel that the bike lacks mid-stroke support, sinking deep into its travel when you brake hard, ride steep trails or push the bike in to corners and jump faces, you need to add more low speed compression damping. Adding low speed compression damping does decrease suspension sensitivity, so you only want to add the minimum level to achieve enough support.Start with it fully open (no additional damping added). 90005 90002 90003 If you feel that your bike moves through the middle of its stroke too quickly 90004 90005 90041 90042 Starting with no low-speed compression damping added on the shock, ride the test trail, each time increasing the low-speed compression two clicks (+). 90043 90042 Focus on how the bike feels under big weight shifts, braking, corners and jump faces. Stop when the bike feels supportive in the mid-part of its travel.90043 90042 Repeat for the fork. 90043 90054 90002 90003 Pro-Tip: 90004 Try to keep your low-speed compression damping settings balanced. For example, if you run very high low-speed compression on the fork and none on the rear shock, the bike will tend to shift more weight to the rear wheel during riding, and vice versa. A balanced setup is key. 90005 90006 90003 Step 6: 90004 High-Speed ​​Compression Damping 90007 90002 90003 The most expensive forks and rear shocks have a high-speed compression damping adjustment (HSC), controlling the damping when the suspension compresses at high shaft speeds (big, fast impacts).90004 90005 90002 If you find that your fork or shock is still bottoming out too easily and have a high-end shock and fork with the option, you can adjust your high-speed compression damping. Adding more high-speed compression damping reduces the amount of travel the fork uses in high speed impacts (shaft speed not bike speed). Low levels of high-speed compression result in digressive damping which allows full travel easily in response to big, fast hits, whereas high levels result in progressive damping, reducing the amount of travel available in response to big, fast hits.90005 90002 90003 If you feel that your bike needs more support at the end of the stroke during high-speed hits 90004 90005 90041 90042 Starting with no high-speed compression damping added on the shock, ride the test trail, each time increasing it by one or two (if there is a lot of range) clicks. 90043 90042 Focus on how the bike feels under high-speed impacts, like landing jumps or big obstacles at high speed. Stop when the bike feels supportive at the end of its travel. 90043 90042 Repeat for the fork.90043 90054 90006 90003 Step 7: 90004 Check for balancee 90007 90002 90003 When it comes to rebound and damping, in nearly all cases a balanced suspension setup is essential for optimal performance. 90004 90005 90002 As a final check, find some level ground and ride slowly across it on your bike. From the attack-position pump repeatedly up and down as hard as you can. The bike should feel supportive and the rebound speed should feel balanced for both the front and rear. If the bike feels unbalanced, identify where the imbalance is coming from and make corresponding adjustments.90005 90002 90084 90085 A balanced suspension setup is very important. Traction not only comes from the tires and terrain surface, but the amount of force the rider is placing on the front and rear tire. A balanced setup is important to this element of traction. 90003 Mark Fitzsimmons 90004, FOX Fahrwerksprogramm-Manager 90088 90005 90002 If you follow this guide, you will not only find a suspension setting that is optimised for your riding style and terrain, but also gain a deeper understanding of how each property of your suspension functions and interacts.Good suspension performance is a balance, a compromise even, between many different factors. If you make any big changes to one setting of your suspension, you need to balance the other settings to match. 90005 90247 90002 90003 Words: 90004 Trev Worsey 90003 Photos: 90004 Finlay Anderson 90005 .90000 How to set up mountain bike suspension 90001 90002 Setting up your suspension fork and shock (if you have one) is absolutely crucial in order to get maximum comfort and control while riding off-road. 90003 90002 >>> The best mountain bike trail forks 90003 90002 Get it wrong and you’ll be fighting a constant battle with your bike and the terrain. Get it right and you will enter a whole new world of control. And while it can seem very complicated, getting the basics right is actually simple.Read on and find out how to dial in your mountain bike suspension. 90003 90002 We’re covering both suspension forks and rear shocks. Here’s what this guide covers … 90003 90010 90011 Basic suspension theory 90012 90011 Setting your sag 90012 90011 Setting your rebound damping 90012 90011 Setting your compression damping 90012 90011 Adjusting your spring progression 90012 90011 How to look after your suspension 90012 90023 90024 How to set up mountain bike suspension 90025 90002 Setting up suspension is not easy but it’s not hugely complex either.You can do it. Take your time. Do not do it in a rush in the car park before a ride. 90003 90002 With setting up suspension you are essentially setting two things: how hard the spring is and how that spring’s movement is controlled (the damping). 90003 90024 Adjusting how firm the spring is 90025 90002 With coil sprung suspension, the firmness of the spring is is dictated by the coil spring used. If you need a harder or softer spring, buy a new coil spring. That’s it. 90003 90002 A coil spring uses coild wire, usually steel, and comes in different lengths and rates to suit different bikes and rider weights 90003 90002 Using a spring that’s too soft (ie.too low a air pressure) will result in suspension that wallows about too deep into its travel and bottoms out too easily. 90003 90002 Using a spring that’s too hard (too much air pressure) will result in a harsh ride that never gives out a suitable amount of travel. 90003 90002 >>> Best long travel suspension forks 90003 90002 Use a shock pump to adjust air pressure 90003 90002 With air sprung suspension (which covers the vast majority of suspension these days), the firmness of the spring is dictated by the air pressure.Air pressure in an air chamber. If you need a harder or softer spring you adjust the pressure in this chamber with a shock pump. 90003 90002 For this guide we’re going to assume that you have air sprung suspension, but if you do have coil sprung suspension this guide is still worth reading as the principles are still relevant. 90003 90002 >>> Improve the performance of your Fox CTD fork 90003 90024 Adjusting how the spring’s movement is controlled 90025 90002 The spring’s movement — how it compresses and how it re-extends (rebounds) — is controlled by your suspension’s damping.90003 90002 Damping is essentially fluid passing through a hole or over a series of metal shims (very thin washers). Fluid will move more slowly through a small hole than a larger hole, or over a thicker / stiffer shim than a thinner shim. With a larger hole, fluid will pass through faster. When you’re adjusting your damping, you’re changing the size of hole (s) that the fluid flows through. 90003 90002 How much control and adjustment you have over your suspension’s damping will depend on your fork or rear shock.Some forks and shocks only have rebound damping adjustment. Some forks and shocks have compression damping adjustment as well. 90003 90002 Some higher end forks and shocks have separate damping adjustments for low speed and high speed impacts / forces. We’ll deal with these later on in this guide. 90003 90024 Setting your sag 90025 90002 This is first thing you need to do with your suspension. Thankfully it’s also the easiest thing you’ll need to do. 90003 90002 What is sag? Sag is how much your bike settles into its suspension travel when you get on your bike and take your feet off the ground.90003 90002 Suspension is designed to work best with between 25-35% sag (AKA a quarter to a third). For example, on a 100mm travel bike you want to aim to have 25mm-33mm of sagged travel when you sit on your bike. 90003 90002 >>> RockShox Pike: 5 ways to a perfect set-up 90003 90002 In our experience it’s best to set your sag whilst standing up on the bike. You’ll need to lean against something, such as a wall. If you set your sag whilst being sat down your rear shock will end up being set too firm and your fork will end up being set too soft.90003 90002 Wind off all your rebound and compression damping (if you have it) to the minimum settings. You do not want the damping interfering with setting your sag. 90003 90002 Slide your suspension’s rubber O-ring travel marker down to the seal. 90003 90002 Set your sag stood up leaning against something 90003 90002 Stand up on your pedals whilst leaning lightly against a wall (or tree, or van etc). Try not to jerk or bounce around whilst doing so, or whilst getting off your bike. 90003 90002 Once off your bike, measure with a tape measure how far your O-ring has moved from the seal.90003 90002 This fork’s rubber O-ring is red 90003 90002 With forks this is straightforward. How far the O-ring has moved in mm can be quickly worked out as a percentage of the fork’s overall travel. 90003 90002 Warning: in our experience forks can be resistant to sagging, so avoid setting more than 20% -25% sag or else it’ll end up being too soft when out on the trail. 90003 90002 Rear shock sag 90003 90002 With rear shocks it’s a bit more complex because a mm of O-ring travel does not equal a mm of rear wheel travel.You’ll need to measure the stroke length of your shock (how much shaft is showing at full extension, eg. 50mm stroke). Then measure how many mm your O-ring has moved under sag. Then you’ll divide your stroke length measurement by your sag measurement. 90003 90002 For example, on a rear shock with a 50mm stroke, running 12.5mm of sag, gives you 25% sag. 90003 90002 90003 90002 Use your shock pump to inflate or deflate the suspension until you are getting 25% sagged travel (25% is a good starting point in our experience as most bikes are designed around this figure).90003 90002 Once riding, if you find you’re not getting decent amounts of travel used on big hits and landings then feel free to try increasing how much sag you’re running ie. let air of the suspension, try 10psi at a time. You should also dial off a click or two of rebound damping after you’ve let air out. 90003 90002 Many brands now have suspension set-up calculators to help you get started. These can be very useful, but always cross-check with your own sag measurements to see how accurate they are.Most ask you to input your height and weight and will give you a pressure for the shock and sometimes the fork. The more sophisticated calculators will also give you damper settings and volume spacer recommendations. 90003 90024 Setting your rebound damping 90025 90002 The rebound dial is at the bottom of this forks right leg 90003 90002 DO NOT attempt to set your rebound damping until you have set your sag properly. 90003 90002 Rebound damping is what controls the speed at which your suspension re-extends after compressing i.e. after absorbing a hit. 90003 90002 Not enough rebound will make your suspension pogo around and ricochet wildly off big hits. 90003 90002 Too much rebound will cause your suspension to pack down, resulting in a harsh ride. It will also mess up your bike’s geometry and handling. 90003 90002 Whilst rebound can be a personal preference thing — some riders like ‘fast’ suspension, some prefer ‘slower’ — there is definitely a correct spectrum to be within. 90003 90002 The red dial is rebound on this rear shock 90003 90002 To set your suspension’s rebound damping, find a kerb.90003 90002 Dial off all your rebound damping to minimum. 90003 90002 Ride off the kerb, while standing up on the pedals, at slow to mid-paced speed. Your suspension will probably compress, quickly re-extend (past the sag point), compress again and then re-extend again. In other words, it will bounce around like a trampoline and then settle. 90003 90002 The aim here is to dial in enough rebound damping that this trampolining effect is minimised. 90003 90002 Dial on a couple of clicks of rebound.Ride off the kerb again. Keeping adding rebound clicks until the suspension is only re-extending once after compressing. 90003 90002 Once out riding, if you then feel that your bike is packing down and riding too deep into its travel, dial off a couple of clicks of rebound. 90003 90024 Setting your compression damping 90025 90002 Not all suspension forks or rear shocks have adjustable compression damping so this section may not be applicable to you. 90003 90002 If your suspension does have adjustable compression damping, you do not HAVE to adjust it if you feel it might be a bit beyond you at the moment.that’s fine. Go ride your bike. 90003 90002 Compression damping affects how your suspension compresses. 90003 90002 Not enough compression damping will result in suspension that bobs around and dives through its travel while pedalling, descending and / or under braking. 90003 90002 Too much compression damping will prevent your suspension from absorbing impacts effectively. You’ll feel it kick back at you, also known as ‘spiking’. If the palms of your hands feel sore at the end of a descent, you may have too much compression damping on your fork.90003 90002 Compression damping is again, a thing of personal preference. Some riders like an easy-moving supple suspension, other riders prefer super stable suspension that does not move eagerly. Think firmly-sprung rally car versus cushy family estate car. 90003 90002 Generally speaking, a lot of riders do not have enough compression damping dialled on. Their suspension bobs around and dives excessively. 90003 90024 Preset compression damping modes 90025 90002 A lot of rear shocks (and some forks) have built-in presets for compression damping.Fox forks and shocks, for example, often have a pedal platform mode with more compression damping and an open mode with less. 90003 90002 The pedal platform mode means lots of compression damping, resulting in a firm ride that resists moving under pedalling (bobbing) but does not give up sufficient suspension travel on bumps. 90003 90002 Open mode means minimal compression damping, resulting in a supple, plush ride but one that can be wallowy with excessive bobbing. 90003 90002 This shock is currently set to a ‘Trail’ preset setting 90003 90002 Trail mode is the general all-rounder setting.Firm enough to avoid excess bobbing but still able to absorb decent hits. 90003 90002 RockShox and other companies have similar presets. 90003 90024 Low speed compression 90025 90002 If you have suspension with properly adjustable compression (as opposed to built-in presets) then it’s worth getting to know how it works. 90003 90002 Basically low-speed compression affects how the suspension compresses at low speeds and during low amplitude forces. 90003 90002 Dial in low speed compression until your suspension does not bob about excessively under pedalling.Some bob is fine (often unavoidable really) but it’s nice to get rid of your suspension pogo-ing around robbing you of energy and control. 90003 90002 Do not worry about losing small bump absorption too much; your tyres are there for soaking up the small stuff. 90003 90002 With low speed compression dialled in suitably you’ll also find that your fork does not dive or sink through its travel during steep descents, especially those where you’re braking significantly. 90003 90024 High speed damping adjustments 90025 90002 Not a lot of suspension forks or rear shocks have adjustable high speed damping (rebound or compression).It’s reserved for high end units intended for knowledgable riders and racers. 90003 90002 Setting high speed damping is something of a dark art. Most riders dial off the high speed compression. They also dial in a few clicks of high speed rebound if they’re riding terrain with lots of jumps and drop-offs. 90003 90002 >>> How to set up a Cane Creek rear shock 90003 90002 We’re not going to go into adjusting high speed damping in this guide. If you have a shock with high speed damping adjustment, your best bet is to refer to the instruction manual and / or website of the manufacturer.90003 90024 Adjusting your spring progression 90025 90002 Believe it or not, on a lot of suspension nowadays you can have it behave in a certain way for the first part of its travel whilst at the same time have it behave in a different way for the latter stage of its travel. 90003 90002 In other words, you can have a supple, linear rate action for the first third (approx) of your suspension’s travel and also have a firmer, ramping up action for the latter third of your suspension travel. 90003 90002 This tweaking of your suspension’s spring rate is done via volume spacers.90003 90002 Inserting volume spacers into your fork (eg. RockShox’s Bottomless Tokens) or rear shock only affects how your suspension feels for the last part of its travel. How the suspension behaves at the sag point or in the middle part of its travel remains unaffected. 90003 90002 If you’re a lighter rider, or a rider who rides relatively sedately on milder terrain, you’ll be fine with your suspension as it is. You do not nee volume spacers. Just ride your bike. 90003 90002 If you’re a heavier or more aggressive rider tackling technical terrain at high speeds then you can really benefit from increasing the progressivity of your suspension.90003 90002 >>> How to fit Fox Float rear shock volume spacers 90003 90002 With volume spacers installed you can run lower air pressures in your suspension and / or less low speed compression damping and have a supple freely-moving action to the early stages of your suspension’s travel whilst at the same time avoiding a fork that blows / dives through the latter stage of its travel too eagerly. 90003 90024 Burp! 90025 90002 This is not an essential thing but you may wish to do it, just because.What do we mean by «burp»? Basically air can get trapped beneath your fork’s dust wipers. It does not have a huge effect but it can cause them to lose a bit of suppleness. 90003 90002 How to get rid of the trapped air? Get hold of a small zip tie and carefully push it between the fork stanchion and the dust wiper seals. Insert the zip tie only a centimetre or two. You may hear a small hiss of air come out. If you do, remove zip tie slowly and get back to setting your suspension up as before. If you do not hear any air hiss out, never mind.There was not any trapped in there. Slowly remove zip tie and carry on with other setup twiddles. If fork feels a bit sticky, it’s probably in need of a quick lube mini-service. 90003 90024 And finally, look after your suspension! 90025 90002 Do not neglect your suspension. It will degrade depressingly quickly if you do, especially in filthy conditions. This is more true for forks as it is for rear shocks (although you should still keep an eye on your rear shock). 90003 90002 >>> Tune your Fox Float air shock in 30-minutes 90003 90002 You’ll be surprised how easy and quick it is to perform a basic clear-out and lube-up job on your fork and rear shock.90003 90002 You probably will not need any weird specific tools but you will need to get hold of some suspension fluid that is designed for your particular brand of suspension. 90003 .